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o Nancy Silverton Cuts the Cheese at Osteria Mozza

Lindsay Schwartz, 3L

Issue date: 1/1/01 Section: Entertainment
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March 2008

If you forgot to make your reservations at Osteria Mozza a month in advance, no need to worry. For me, the best seat in the house is one at the "mozzarella bar" (Nancy Silverton's novel take on antipasti) where you can't even make a reservation. It's first-come-first-served, and everything is based on Italian fresh cheese.

The professional kitchen has an undeniable reputation as a man's world; a reputation which chef's like Nancy Silverton have worked to erase.

Silverton has had an influential career, most notably known for her La Brea Bakery bread with a crisp crust and soft, airy interior. Critics would agree she fits right up there with the most famous female chefs such as Suzanne Goin (Lucques & AOC), Alice Waters (Chez Panisse, Berkeley) and Judy Rodgers (Zuni Cafe, San Francisco);  and from the perch at the bar, one can see firsthand that Silverton is still busy creating in the kitchen.

From creamy burricotti crowned with braised artichokes, currants, pine nuts and a fragrant mint pesto to stracciatella, a soft cheese, with fresh celery, scallions and a refreshing herb salad, this is an experience any self-proclaimed foodie cannot afford to miss.

So move over, Mario-- you're no longer the main event!

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